Melbourne Hotels

Then again, Melbourne also wants to be seen as the Sporting Capital of Australia. And the Shopping Capital of Australia. And (probably, secretly) the Actual Capital of Australia. With so much ambition in one city, you know that a visit is going to be anything but boring.

Melbourne’s trendier-than-thou attitude is undermined by the bright, helpful attitude of its residents, both in the city or AFL-mad suburbs like Carlton and Hawthorn. Equally, Melbourne’s passion for art and culture is balanced by an equal passion for music – in the hole-in-the-wall pubs along Brunswick Street you can catch up-and-coming bands play free any night of the week.

St Kilda, the waterfront entertainment hub, is a great place to people-watch and soak up the Melbourne sun (contrary to Sydney propaganda, it will make an appearance), and the quirky, offbeat thrift stores that mingle with high-end fashion on Chapel Street secure Melbourne’s fashion credentials. Lygon Street’s sumptuous Italian food outlets lure passers-by and locals alike with the fragrance of fresh coffee, garlic and tomato, making Melbourne one of the premier destinations for Aussie gourmands.

Come to think of it, whether it’s food, music, art, fashion, sport or shopping you’re after, Melbourne is up there with the best of them. No wonder the rest of Australia loves to take the mickey out of it…

MELBOURNE’S TOP 10

MELBOURNE LOCAL

Carlton

Carlton may be as pretty as a picture with its historic, ornate terraces and leafy streets, but its appeal is not just skin-deep… it’s got guts, too. Home to some of the earliest Italian immigrants, Carlton was originally working-class, but Melbourne’s foodie clique couldn’t resist the aromas of Nonna’s home cooking and now the crowds flock to Lygon Street every day to sniff and taste the traditional delights on offer.

Carlton is also home to Melbourne Zoo, location of some surprisingly funky gigs in the summer months, the Royal Exhibition Building, location of our first national parliament and the Melbourne Museum, where Phar Lap can still be seen (not quite as active as in his heyday, but a testament to our love of sport and taking a punt).

Fitzroy

Fitzroy was once the site of some of Melbourne’s most impressive colonial architecture, but the Depression hit it hard and for decades it remained in a state of disrepair. As a result, low rents brought students, immigrants and struggling artists to the suburb, and the areas around Brunswick Street especially became Melbourne’s bohemian centre.

While it’s still possible to spot alternative boutiques and pubs dotting the streets, middle-class money has now gentrified Fitzroy, meaning truly struggling artists can no longer afford to live there. Middle-class invasion aside, Fitzroy remains home to Melbourne’s annual Fringe Festival every September, and is the place to indulge in fantastic tapas around Melbourne’s Johnston Street-based Spanish Quarter.

East MelbourneandRichmond

East Melbourne and Richmond have been adopted by both the Vietnamese and Greek immigrant communities and are both in easy proximity to Melbourne’s major sporting venues, including the iconic MCG. Victoria Street is a pho-lover’s dream, with restaurant upon restaurant (and soup bowl upon soup bowl) filled to the brim with authentic Vietnamese delights. Swan Street is the place to go if you fancy something a little more Hellenic. Melbourne has the biggest Greek population outside Athens, so you know the grub you’re getting is the real McSpiros!

Once you’ve happily over-indulged, give your credit card a retail workout. Bridge Street boasts the city’s biggest range of factory outlets, so put your walking shoes on and shop till you drop.

Toorak and South Yarra

Melbourne’s snob suburbs are worth a look if you want to see how the other half live. Dodge the Mercedes and snicker at the yoga mums with Hermes purses en route to the northern end of Chapel Street, where you can out the stunning homes and leafy streets.

Prahran Market is the place for fresh produce, from seafood to meat, while some of the trendy nightclubs, like Boutique and OneSixOne become different sorts of meat markets on the weekends!

Williamstown

Williamstown has a long history as a port, and its pretty marina and foreshore give a village-feel to the newly gentrified area. Williamstown Beach is a great spot for picnics, and the whole suburb is steeped in local nostalgia, with locals rarely venturing far from their childhood stomping grounds to settle. A trip to the ‘Willy RSL’ will see you encounter some real Aussie characters who provide a wonderful contrast to Melbourne’s arty-farty reputation.

MELBOURNE EAT & DRINK

Melbourne’s thriving immigrant communities, world-class culinary innovation and unique brand of offbeat eateries make up a rich tapestry of foodie delights.

MELBOURNE EVENTS

For sports fans, there’s the Australian Tennis Open in January at the Rod Laver Arena, plus of course the Melbourne Cup in November. Completing the trifecta is the Boxing Day Test.

In March, the Moomba Festival brings musical flavours from around the planet, while the International Flower Show attracts a green-thumbed following.

Melbourne also hosts the Melbourne International Comedy Festival (March/April), when comedians from ‘all over the world’ (but mostly, it seems, Ireland and here) come to drown their insecurities in public applause.

June brings the Melbourne International Jazz Festival, followed in July by the Melbourne Film Festival and Melbourne International Motor Show (interestingly enough, not a lot of crossover between these clienteles.)

The heart of Melbourne winter is warmed by the arrival of the Melbourne Writer’s Festival in August, and with a thriving literary and arts scene, it’s always worthwhile.

The Melbourne Fringe Festival and Melbourne International Arts Festival arrive with spring and by the end of the year everyone’s just trying to cope with the heat and recover from the Melbourne Cup!

WHEN TO GO

• Yes, it’s true: Melbourne’s weather really is unpredictable. The Crowded House song ‘Four Seasons in One Day’ was written in and about Melbourne. Which pretty much sums it up.

WHAT TO MISS

• Although Melbourne’s Queen Victoria Markets is one of the biggest open markets in the southern hemisphere, it’s basically a smorgasbord of all the useless junk you don’t need. While the fruit and vegies are pretty good quality, check out one of the smaller farmer’s markets and save yourself the hassle.
• King Street was once Melbourne’s nightlife hub, but is now the domain of buck’s nights and late-night brawls. Melbourne’s back lanes provide plenty of better quality watering holes, without the threat of leering blokes and greased-up, cologne-drenched schoolies.
• You may be seduced into a horse and buggy ride through the streets of Melbourne, but take it from us – you’ll pay about $50 for the privilege of looking like a bit of a tool and staring up the business end of a farmyard animal.

GETTING AROUND

Budget for an expensive cab ride if that’s the way you choose to get from the airport into the city – both Tullamarine and Avalon are a fare (he he he) way out.

Melbourne is well-served by public transport, with trams a quaint but efficient means of getting around from beach to business district. Hiring a car is always an option, especially if wanting to explore outside Melbourne, but parking spaces in the city and surrounding suburbs can be hard to come by. Because of the trams, you also have hook turns, which necessitate getting in the left lane to turn right. It’s weird, but works!

For the active/environmentally minded, you can rent a bicycle (and a helmet) at any of the 50 bike stations around the city and return it to a different one. It’s a great, easy and cheap way of getting around.

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